The Old Shtetl: Krynica


There are many stories about the shtetlach in Poland, mostly concerning everyday life and the struggle to survive. But life was not always a struggle, not always filled with a fear of the Gentiles or where the next meal would come from. There was also time for vacation and trips to the famous spa towns to “take of the waters.”



One such spa town that often had a majority of Jews during the high season was Krynica.
Nestled in the mountains south of Nowy Sacz near the border of the Czech Republic, Krynica was very popular with the Chassidic rabbis. They came for the therapeutic waters and the clean mountain air. They would be joined by large numbers of their followers who didn’t want to be away from their rebbe, his holiness and his teachings.


Today the town has not changed much. There are a few new hotels and modern conveniences, but it is still very recognizable to people returning to this resort town for the first time since the Shoah.



Caption: The Radomsker Rebbe with his entourage walking through the streets of Krynica.




The Patria Hotel, a pre-war favorite, still operates, and some of the private buildings still show architecture reminiscent of the time when the Jews of Poland flocked to Krynica. The main spa building where people gather to drink the mineral water, and its mall of shops, flower gardens and other attractions, haven’t changed much since the war.



An Israeli couple from Herzliya was staying at the same hotel I stayed at in this spa town. They enjoyed regaling me with stories that they remembered of Krynica before the war.

The area around Krynica was also famous for its hiking trails. Today, a small train takes hikers to the top of a nearby mountain for spectacular views. In the winter, there is very good skiing and other winter sport facilities.

While hiking through town, the local tradition of flower sculpture is visible at every turn. There are eight foot high water jugs (the town symbol), owls and peacocks as well as many other forms. One can almost feel the presence of the Jews enjoying the relaxing atmosphere, stopping to admire the views, and drinking the waters.



Caption:
Private pre-war house in Krynica with Jewish motifs on its balcony attesting to the popularity of the spa town for Jews before the Shoah.





But this town that was once famous for being a favorite of the Jews, is now void of anything Jewish. There is no sign of the many synagogues or study halls that once served the vacationing community. There is no cemetery to visit, as in so many other shtetlach. Krynica was truly a Jewish transient town where Jews spent a limited amount of time. They have gone, with only memories and minimal evidence to show that they ever were there. This is a microcosm of the whole of Poland.

This entry was posted on Wednesday, November 13th, 2002 and is filed under history.